Mumbai, a city that never sleeps, is a melting pot of cultures, traditions, and cuisines. Among its many culinary treasures, the Irani cafes hold a special place. These cafes, with their old-world charm and delectable offerings, have been an integral part of Mumbai’s cultural and culinary landscape for over a century. This article delves into the history, ambiance, and must-visit Irani cafes in Mumbai, offering a comprehensive guide for anyone looking to experience this unique aspect of the city.
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Origins and History
The story of Irani cafes in Mumbai begins in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when Persian immigrants, fleeing religious persecution and economic hardships, arrived in India. These immigrants, primarily Zoroastrians and Shia Muslims, brought with them a rich culinary heritage and a love for hospitality. They established small cafes, often in corner properties deemed inauspicious by locals, where they served tea, snacks, and simple meals.
The Birth of Irani Cafes
The first Irani cafes were modest establishments, offering a limited menu of tea, biscuits, and bread. Over time, these cafes evolved, adding more elaborate dishes like kheema pav, bun maska, and Irani chai. The cafes became popular gathering spots for people from all walks of life, breaking down social barriers and fostering a sense of community.
The Golden Era
The golden era of Irani cafes spanned from the early 1900s to the 1980s. These cafes were at the heart of Mumbai’s social and cultural life during this period. They were frequented by intellectuals, artists, and common folk, who would gather to discuss ideas, read newspapers, and enjoy tea. The cafes also became known for their quirky rules, such as “No Talking to Waiter” and “No Credit,” which added to their unique charm.
Decline and Resilience
Despite their popularity, Irani cafes began to decline in the late 20th century due to various factors, including rising real estate prices, changing consumer preferences, and competition from modern cafes and fast-food chains. Many iconic Irani cafes were forced to shut down, while others struggled to survive. However, the resilience of these cafes and their loyal patrons ensured that some of them continued to thrive, preserving a vital part of Mumbai’s cultural heritage.
Timeless Ambiance
Walking into an Irani cafe is like stepping into a time capsule. The decor, with its vintage checkered tiles, bentwood chairs, and large mirrors, transports you to an era long gone. The lingering aroma of freshly brewed chai and the soft clinking of cups create a nostalgic and comforting space.
Iconic Decor Elements
- Bentwood Chairs: These antique chairs, often imported from Europe, are a hallmark of Irani cafes.
- Checkered Tablecloths: The classic red-and-white checkered tablecloths add to the old-world charm.
- Large Mirrors: These mirrors enhance the sense of space and allow the owner to keep an eye on the entire cafe.
- Grandfather Clocks: Many Irani cafes feature vintage clocks that have been ticking away for decades.
A Cozy Atmosphere
The cozy atmosphere of Irani cafes is perfect for a leisurely breakfast, a quick snack, or an afternoon tea. The cafes exude a sense of history and tradition, making them a favorite haunt for locals and tourists alike.
The Role of Music
Music has always played a significant role in creating the ambiance of Irani cafes. Traditional Persian and Indian music, played softly in the background, adds to the nostalgic feel. Some cafes even have old gramophones or jukeboxes that play classic tunes, further enhancing the vintage vibe.
The Social Hub
Irani cafes have always been more than just places to eat and drink; they have been social hubs where people from different backgrounds come together. These cafes foster a sense of community, providing a space for intellectual discussions, friendly banter, and even business meetings. The communal tables and welcoming atmosphere make it easy for strangers to strike up conversations and form connections.
13 Must Visit Irani Cafes in Mumbai
Fort Area
1. Yazdani Bakery
Yazdani Bakery, a Fort landmark since 1953, is renowned for its old-world charm and handcrafted baked goods. The bakery’s wood-fired ovens produce delectable brun maska, Irani chai, and ginger biscuits. During Christmas, their plum cakes are highly sought after. The bakery’s vintage decor, including bentwood chairs and large mirrors, transports visitors to a bygone era. Despite challenges, Yazdani has maintained its traditional baking methods and recipes, attracting both locals and tourists. The bakery’s commitment to quality and nostalgia has earned it recognition, including the Urban Heritage & Citizens Award in 2007.
- Location: Fort
- Cost for Two: Rs 250
- Famous For: Mawa Puff, Ginger Biscuits, Brun Pav
- Timings: 7 am to 7 pm
2. Café Excelsior
Café Excelsior, a family-run establishment now in its third generation, has been a Fort staple for over a century. Founded in 1919, the cafe has witnessed Mumbai’s transformation while maintaining its Irani cafe essence. Known for its brun maska and Irani chai, Excelsior also serves a variety of Parsi and Continental dishes. The cafe’s proximity to the historic Excelsior Cinema adds to its charm. Over the years, it has expanded its menu to include popular items like keema pav and salli boti. Despite modernization, Café Excelsior retains its vintage ambiance, making it a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
- Location: Fort
- Cost for Two: Rs 550
- Famous For: Brun Maska
- Timings: 8 am to 11 pm
3. Ideal Corner
Ideal Corner, a beloved breakfast spot in Fort, offers an authentic Parsi dining experience. Established in the early 1990s, this cafe has become synonymous with hearty Parsi cuisine. Their menu boasts classics like kheema pav, mutton dhansak, and chicken dhansak. The cafe’s Pallonji’s Ice Cream Soda is a refreshing treat. Ideal Corner’s cozy interiors and friendly staff create a welcoming atmosphere. The cafe’s commitment to traditional Parsi recipes and flavors has earned it a loyal customer base. It’s an ideal spot for those looking to explore the rich culinary heritage of Mumbai’s Parsi community.
- Location: Fort
- Cost for Two: Rs 400
- Famous For: Sali Chicken, Lagan Nu Custard
- Timings: 12 pm to 4 pm
4. Café Military
Café Military, established in 1933, is steeped in Mumbai’s history. The cafe has retained its vintage charm in an area once populated by military personnel. Famous for its kheema pav and chicken biryani, Café Military offers a taste of authentic Parsi cuisine. The cafe’s no-frills ambiance, complete with bentwood chairs and checkered tablecloths, transports diners to a simpler time. Despite changing trends, Café Military has stayed true to its roots, serving traditional dishes like salli boti and akuri. It remains a popular spot for locals and office-goers seeking a quick, satisfying meal in the heart of Fort.
- Location: Fort
- Cost for Two: Rs 400
- Famous For: Sali Boti
- Timings: Monday to Saturday 8.30 am to 9 pm
5. Jimmy Boy
Jimmy Boy offers a quintessential Parsi dining experience in the heart of Fort. Established in 1999, this restaurant quickly became a go-to spot for authentic Parsi cuisine. The menu features classics like salli par eedu, chicken farcha, and mutton/chicken dhansak. Their Lagan nu Bhonu (Parsi Thali) is highly recommended for those wanting to sample a variety of dishes. Jimmy Boy’s elegant decor, including chandeliers and wrought-iron railings, creates a sophisticated yet welcoming atmosphere. The restaurant’s commitment to preserving Parsi culinary traditions while offering a modern dining experience has made it a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
- Location: Fort
- Cost for Two: Rs 500
- Famous For: Berry Pulao
- Timings: 12 pm to 4 pm
South Mumbai
1. Merwan & Co.
Merwan & Co., located near Grant Road railway station, has been a popular breakfast joint since 1914. This iconic Irani cafe is famous for its bun maska, mawa puff, and macaroon cakes. The cafe’s vintage interiors, including marble-top tables and bentwood chairs, create a nostalgic ambiance. Merwan’s commitment to quality and traditional recipes has earned it a loyal customer base spanning generations. Despite facing closure in 2014, the cafe reopened due to public demand, testament to its cultural significance. Merwan continues to serve affordable, delicious fare, making it a beloved spot for locals and visitors alike.
- Location: Grant Road East
- Cost for Two: Rs 100
- Famous For: Bun Maska, Mava Puff, Macaroon Cakes
- Timings: 7 am to 6 pm
2. Sassanian Boulangerie
Sassanian Boulangerie, established in 1913, has evolved from a simple tea and biscuit shop to a multi-cuisine restaurant. Located in the bustling Marine Lines area, this Irani cafe is known for its chicken puff, sali keema, and dhansak. The cafe’s vintage decor adds to its charm, including old-world furniture and black-and-white photographs. Sassanian has adapted to changing times by expanding its menu while maintaining its Parsi culinary roots. The cafe’s bakery section continues to produce fresh bread and pastries daily. Its enduring popularity is a testament to its ability to balance tradition with modern tastes.
- Location: Grant Road East
- Cost for Two: Rs 200
- Famous For: Chicken Puff, Sali Keema, Dhansak
- Timings: 7 am to 10 pm
3. Kayani Bakery & Co
Kayani Bakery & Co., one of Mumbai’s oldest Irani cafes, has been serving patrons since the early 20th century. The cafe’s high ceilings, red checkered mats, and old rustic furniture create a nostalgic ambiance. Famous for their akuri and beans on toast, Kayani also offers a range of baked goods and Parsi specialties. The bakery’s commitment to traditional recipes and baking methods has ensured its popularity over the decades. Despite facing challenges, Kayani has maintained its old-world charm and quality, making it a must-visit for those seeking an authentic Irani cafe experience in Mumbai.
- Location: Marine Lines
- Cost for Two: Rs 300
- Famous For: Akuri, Beans on Toast
- Timings: Monday to Saturday: 7 am to 8.45 pm; Sunday: 7 am to 6.45 pm
4. Paradise
Paradise, located on the bustling Colaba Causeway, has been serving authentic Parsi food since 1958. The cafe’s menu includes classic dishes like dhansak, salli boti, and lagan nu custard. They also offer exotic specialties such as papeta ma gosht and atheli marghi. Paradise’s simple yet charming interiors, featuring bentwood chairs and vintage photographs, create a cozy atmosphere. The cafe has maintained its traditional recipes and cooking methods, ensuring an authentic Parsi dining experience. Its location in the heart of Colaba makes it a popular spot for both locals and tourists exploring South Mumbai.
- Location: Colaba
- Cost for Two: Rs 700
- Famous For: Mutton Dhansak
- Timings: 11.30 am to 10.30 pm
5. Britannia and Co.
Britannia and Co., established in 1923, is a prominent landmark in Ballard Estate. Renowned for its berry pulao, this Irani cafe has been serving authentic Parsi and Iranian cuisine for nearly a century. The cafe’s old-world charm is enhanced by its Polish chairs, high ceilings, and vintage decor. Britannia’s menu features unique dishes like sali boti and dhansak, alongside their famous berry pulao. The late owner, Boman Kohinoor, was known for his warm hospitality and stories about the cafe’s history. Despite challenges, Britannia continues to draw food enthusiasts from across the world, preserving a vital piece of Mumbai’s culinary heritage.
- Location: Ballard Estate
- Cost for Two: Rs 1000
- Famous For: Berry Pulao
- Timings: 11.30 am to 4 pm
Central Mumbai
1. Gulshan Café
Gulshan Café, located in Matunga, has been a popular spot for students and locals since its establishment in the mid-20th century. Known for its diverse menu, the cafe offers a variety of Parsi delicacies alongside Indian and Continental dishes. Their dum biryani is a standout, while vegetarians can enjoy options like veg biryani and paneer dishes. Gulshan’s cozy interiors and affordable prices make it a favorite among college students. The cafe has adapted to changing tastes while maintaining its Irani cafe charm. Its location in the culturally rich Matunga area adds to its appeal, making it a melting pot of diverse culinary traditions.
- Location: Matunga
- Cost for Two: Rs 700
- Famous For: Dum Biryani
- Timings: 9.30 am to 11 pm
2. Cafe Irani Chai
Cafe Irani Chai, a relatively new addition to Mumbai’s Irani cafe scene, has quickly gained popularity for its authentic flavors and welcoming atmosphere. Located in Mahim, this cafe is known for its breakfast menu, serving delicious akuri, toast bun maska, and mutton kheema. Their special Irani chai is a must-try, brewed to perfection using traditional methods. The cafe’s interiors blend modern aesthetics with vintage Irani cafe elements, creating a unique dining experience. Cafe Irani Chai’s commitment to preserving Irani culinary traditions while catering to contemporary tastes has made it a favorite among both young and old patrons.
- Location: Mahim
- Cost for Two: Rs 400
- Famous For: Akuri and Haleem
- Timings: 7 am to 11 pm
3. Koolar & Co.
Koolar & Co., established in 1932, gained wider recognition after being featured in the movie “The Lunchbox.” Famous for its kheema pav and five-egg omelette, this Irani cafe in Matunga has been serving comfort food for generations. Its checkered table mats and vintage decor enhance the cafe’s old-world charm. Koolar & Co. has maintained its traditional menu and cooking methods, offering authentic Parsi and Irani dishes. Its location in Matunga, known for its diverse food culture, adds to its appeal. The cafe’s enduring popularity is a testament to its quality food and nostalgic ambiance, making it a must-visit for those exploring Mumbai’s culinary heritage.
- Location: Matunga
- Cost for Two: Rs 600
- Famous For: Akuri and Kheema
- Timings: 7 am to 11 pm
The Future of Irani Cafes
Despite facing challenges such as rising rents and changing consumer preferences, Irani cafes hold a special place in Mumbai’s heart. These cafes are not just about food; they are about preserving a rich cultural heritage and fostering community.
A Living Legacy
The future of Irani cafes in Mumbai is a testament to the resilience of culture and traditions. As long as there are patrons who appreciate the charm and flavors of these cafes, their legacy will endure. Irani cafes serve as a bridge between the past and the present, embodying the spirit of Mumbai.
Modern Adaptations
Many Irani cafes have adapted to modern times by offering vegetarian versions of traditional dishes and incorporating contemporary decor elements. Some cafes have also become popular venues for cultural events, such as book readings and poetry sessions, further cementing their place in Mumbai’s cultural landscape.
Conclusion
In a city that never sleeps, the Irani cafes of Mumbai stand as timeless witnesses to history, culture, and culinary excellence. These cafes are not just places to eat; they are living museums that tell the story of Mumbai’s rich and diverse heritage. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, a trip to Mumbai is incomplete without experiencing the charm of its Irani cafes.
FAQs
Q1. What exactly is an Irani cafe?
A1. An Irani cafe is a type of restaurant in Mumbai managed by Parsi people. They have vintage decor and a cozy atmosphere, serving a mix of Iranian and Parsi dishes.
Q2. What makes Irani chai so special?
A2. Irani chai is a delightful blend of tea leaves and spices, resulting in a fragrant and slightly sweet brew. It’s traditionally served in small glass cups.
Q3. Are there any vegetarian options at Irani cafes?
A3. Yes, many Irani cafes offer vegetarian versions of traditional meat-based dishes, catering to the dietary preferences of a significant population in Mumbai.
Q4. Which Irani cafe in Mumbai is the oldest?
A4. Kayani Bakery & Co., established in the early 20th century, is one of the oldest Irani cafes in Mumbai.
Q5. Can I find modern Irani cafes in Mumbai?
A5. Yes, some modern Irani cafes, like SodaBottleOpenerWala, offer a contemporary twist on traditional Irani dishes while preserving the old-world charm.